The most common cleaning mistake we see is people using the same product on every material. A foaming cleaner that works well on mesh will flatten suede nap and leave a watermark. A stiff brush that cleans leather will pull threads on mesh. The material determines the method, and getting it wrong is usually not reversible. Here is what we do for each.
Suede: the most forgiving material that looks the least forgiving ¶
Suede looks delicate but it is actually quite resilient if you treat it correctly. The key is to never use water directly on dry suede. It causes tide marks. For dry dirt, a suede brush (brass bristles for heavy dirt, nylon for light) brushed in one direction lifts the nap and removes surface grime. For wet stains, blot immediately with a dry cloth, let it dry completely, then brush. We use Jason Markk's suede kit for anything more serious. Never use a standard foam cleaner on suede.
Mesh: the easiest to clean, the easiest to damage ¶
Mesh uppers clean well with a diluted solution of Jason Markk and warm water applied with a soft-bristle brush in small circular motions. The mistake is using too much pressure or a stiff brush, which pulls the mesh fibres and creates visible damage. Rinse with a damp cloth, not running water. Let dry at room temperature away from direct sunlight. Heat causes mesh to shrink slightly and can distort the shape of the upper. Do not put mesh shoes in a washing machine.
Leather: the most durable, the most neglected ¶
Smooth leather is the easiest to clean and the most neglected. A damp cloth removes most surface dirt. For deeper cleaning, a small amount of Jason Markk on a soft cloth, worked in circles, then wiped off. The step most people skip is conditioning: leather dries out over time, especially in Kyoto's dry winters, and a leather conditioner applied every few months keeps it supple and prevents cracking. We use Leather Honey at the shop. It takes about five minutes and makes a visible difference.
When to bring them in ¶
If the stain is set, if the suede nap is badly matted, or if you are not sure what material you are dealing with, bring them in. We charge ¥1,200 per pair and we handle all three materials. Drop off before noon and pick up same day. We will tell you honestly if the damage is beyond what cleaning can fix.
Most shoes can be brought back from a state that looks terminal. The ones that cannot are usually the ones where someone tried the wrong product first. When in doubt, bring them in before you try anything.